High heels: a fashion statement that complements any stylish outfit. What’s there not to like? From wedges to stilettos, from nine inches to nine centimeters, there’s so much variety in a single style of shoe. Wearing a heel has become an expectation in fashion more than an exception—especially for women. How did high heels become so popular in the first place? Better yet, who came up with the design and why? The answers to those questions are surprisingly complex and very unorthodox.

The earliest form of the high heel originated in ancient Greece circa 200 BC. The Greek heel, or “Kothorni,” was originally intended for the noble art of theater. Because Greek theaters didn’t have the modern marvels of stage rigging, sets, costumes, and more, subtle design cues were used to demonstrate those same effects. The heel was meant to denote someone who was of a higher social rank like a king, or someone who was above another, like a god. The most interesting part was that the Kothorni was never used outside of the theater experience; only thespians had the distinct honor of wearing a heel.

After the fall of the Greek World, it appeared that heels had permanently died out from the world’s consciousness. That is, until Persia developed their own style of high heel. From the 9th century onward, heels took on a more pragmatic form through their use in the Persian cavalry. Persian cavalry were typically armed with a bow and arrow, so the use of the heel allowed them to gain better purchase onto their saddle stirrups in order to shoot with higher accuracy. Heels proved to be extremely advantageous on horseback, which can explain the notable heel on cowboy boots as well. Heels were strictly a practical design up until the very end of the 16th century.

In 1599, the ruler of Persia Shah Abbas I wanted to improve diplomatic relations with European nations. He hoped that with support from Spain, Germany, and Russia, he’d be able to defeat the Ottoman Empire. Persian diplomats, sporting an air of masculinity thanks to their heels, immediately sparked a European obsession with Persian culture. With it, high heels were promptly adopted as the fashion symbol of innate style and superiority. Due to the heels’ origin as part of a soldier’s repertoire, almost exclusively men wore heels.

Eventually, the trend trickled down to the lower classes. In response, nobles made their heels more flamboyant through colorful textiles and bobbles while also making the heel drastically higher. In 17th century Venice, “Chopine” was the name given to the extraordinary 1.5-foot heels nobles sported. The idea was that since a noble needed servants to walk, the shoes expressed wealth. The Chopine was particularly popular with Venetian women.

The end of the 17th century marked a decline in the popularity of high heels amongst noblemen. It became more common for women to wear the shoe, but in general, heels lost their once-dramatic popularity. It wasn’t until the 19th century that high heels appeared as a staple for female models in photography, albeit with a distinct lack of flair compared to its centuries past ancestor. The appearance of the stiletto after World War II, created by designer Roger Vivier, created a renewed zeal in heels.

Now, high heels are as ubiquitous as they once were centuries ago, if not much more. Heels no longer carry any status connotation, have any restriction based on gender, or have any cultural significance. If anything, heels reflect just how similar humans are despite any strong differences. No matter what, high heels can make anyone feel good and look good; after all, they’ve done so for centuries.

Information received from “The Ancient Origins of High Heels – Once an Essential Accessory for Men” from Ancientorigins.net, “High Heels Fit for a King” from the Royal Collection Trust, and “History Of Women’s Shoes: How High Heels Eventually Became Feminine” from History Daily.